Decorative Hardware/Finishes

A: In most cases the screws are not included, but if they are included, it will be stated in the description in the catalog. Keep in mind that the manufacture has no way of knowing how thick your drawer/door is, so the length of an included screw may not match your needs.

A: The finishes shown in the catalog were current at the time of the printing, and new colors/finishes may now be available. Contact your Häfele sales representative for availability.

A: Good question, and I'll do my best to make this short.
Galvanizing in a process where steel parts are dipped in molten zinc. (Along with several other herbs and spices.) This is commonly used to waterproof steel buckets. Galvanized hardware is usually designed for water resistance, not for looks, as galvanized steel will often have a dull, textured appearance.

As for chrome plating, there are actually two different types. The first type is "hard chrome plating" (sometimes called engineering chrome plating) and the second is "decorative chrome plating".

Hard Chrome plating is just chrome plating, but it is applied as a fairly heavy coating (usually measured in thousandths of an inch) for wear resistance, lubricity, oil retention and other wear purposes. Some examples would be hydraulic cylinder rods, rollers, piston rings, thread guides, etc. It is called hard chrome because it is thick enough that when a hardness measurement is performed the chrome hardness can actually be measured. It is almost always applied to items that are made of steel. It's not really shiny or decorative.

Decorative chrome plating is sometimes called nickel-chrome plating because it always involves plating nickel before plating the chrome. The chrome adds to the bluish cast (filtering the somewhat yellowish cast of the nickel), and it protects against tarnish, and minimizes scratching. But the point is, without the brilliant nickel undercoating, you would not have a reflective, decorative surface.

Some metals, like zinc die-castings, cannot be directly nickel-plated but must be copper plated first. Other materials, like aluminum, cannot be copper plated until they have been zincated.

Connector Technology

A: Woodshops in North America have been slowly testing the waters of the 32mm system and the hardware designed for use with it. In most cases this means using their existing tools and methods while taking advantage of a few of the more attractive features of the 32mm system hardware. No doubt you have seen that many cabinets being sold today feature 35mm cup hinges. These hinges allow the installer to mount the cabinets without doors getting in the way, then quickly and easily hang and align them once the cabinets are installed. To install these hinges, a shop needs a simple fence with stops for the drillpress or an inexpensive jig for a hand held drill to aid in locating the 35mm holes properly. These hinges are just the tip of the iceberg. Connectors allow you to install permanent "clamps" in those impossible to clamp joints as well as making the joints RTA. (Ready To Assemble) System holes can be used for adjustable shelves, drawer slides and for mounting doors. Sure there are production tools that can do the job faster and more accurately, but these aren't needed until you decide which parts of the "System" are for you.

A: Philips drive screws are the screws that have cross-slots that look like an X, stamped into the head. Patented in the 1930's, these were a vast improvement over the antique "slotted" screw, which tended to cam-out easily and were difficult to drive with power drivers.

Robertson (square) drive screws were patented in Canada in 1908 and address problems that the Phillips driver doesn't quite solve. They allow the screw to be placed on the driver prior to the screw being placed in position. What this meant was that for the first time you could start a screw overhead or in a tight spot without an extra hand holding the screw onto the driver.

Pozidrive screws are the European answer to the Phillips shortcomings. The differences are subtle. At first glance it appears to be a Phillips, but on closer examination you'll notice a second set of cross-blades at the root of the large cross-blades. These added blades are for identification and match the additional makings on the head of Pozi-drive screws, known as "tick" marks. So the marks are for identification. Identification of what?

Two features of the Pozi-drive screw and driver combination make it unique, and superior to the Phillips. First, the tip or the Pozidrive driver is blunt, which also helps it to seat better into the recess in the screw, unlike the Phillips which comes to a sharper point. This becomes a problem as the tooling that forges the recess in the head of the screws begins to show signs of wear. The recess becomes more and more shallow, which means the driver will bottom-out too soon and will cause the driver to cam-out. The second unique feature is the large blades on the driver have parallel faces, where the Phillips blades are tapered. The straight sides of the driver allow additional torque to be exerted without fear of cam-out. Knowing this, we can see why a Phillips driver will have problems driving a screw with a Pozi-recess, as a Pozi-driver would have little luck driving a Phillips head screw. One more tip. In a pinch it is possible to drive Pozi-drive screws with a Phillips driver, but you will need to grind down the tip slightly, and expect some slipping to occur.

A: Varianta screws (also known as Euro screws) were made for use in "system holes", or simply 3mm or 5mm holes used for holding hardware such as hinges and slides. Because they are always used in a predrilled hole, they are blunt, with parallel sides, and are very strong. Varianta screws are available in pan head, washer head, flat head, and several special heads. They are offered in Pozidrive/Phillips and Robertson style (square) and were designed for use in particleboard, where they give excellent results.

Spax screws contain a number of innovative features that put them ahead of the wood screw pack. Let's start with the head and work our way to the point. The head has a special recess called "Unidrive", which allows it to driven with a Phillips, a Robertson (square) or a Pozidrive screwdriver or bit. Where the head meets the threaded shaft (the neck) there is a secondary bevel that strengthens this otherwise vulnerable area (heads don't snap off). The threads are deeper than all other screws (greater tearout resistance) and the threads nearest the tip are serrated (notched like a saw) to allow the edges to cut smooth threads. The serrated edges do one more thing; they are slightly fatter than the remainder of the threads, so the friction is greatly reduced. The steel is stress relieved, which leaves them hard but not brittle, and lastly they are finished with a slick "Teflon type" coating (polytetrafluoroethylene if you really must know). Pre-drilling is largely a thing of the past. This is really an awesome screw!

Confirmats actually aren't even screws, but are more like a threaded steel dowel. They create a strong joint that can be repeatedly assembled and disassembled. They are installed with a special 3-step bit that drills a pilot hole, a through hole and a countersink in a single drilling operation. Confirmats are the ideal choice where high pull-out resistance and strength is needed, such as in a corner joint. Available in several diameters, lengths and head styles, they can be disguised with color matching trim caps that can be snapped into a recess in the head. This cap can be removed and reused at any time.

Zip-R screws are made for use in hardwood, softwood and particleboard where pre-drilling is not desired. When you drive a typical screw into wood, the screw acts like a round wedge that is forced into the wood. This is why we get splits. Zip-R screws feature a special thread type known as "Type 17" which works like the gullets on a drill bit. As the screw enters the wood it actually drills a hole and the dust created by this drilling action enters the special slots in the Type 17 thread eliminating the wedging action of the screw and the dust around it. This screw also cuts a thread into the wood which allows the parts to be disassembled and reassembled a few times without a substantial loss of grip, as is seen with many "self tapping" thread designs.

Hospa screws are manufactured for use in particleboard where edge screwing is often done. If you are using drywall screws, you will find these to be a great step-up, as they do not have the tendency to snap as drywall screws do. Predrilling may be necessary in some applications. For best results drive Hospa screws with a Pozidrive bit. (See answer to Question above)

A: Drywall screws are excellent for doing what they were designed for; penetrating through a paper-wrapped slab of a chalk-like substance (gypsum), then into a piece of dry pine. Not really all that tough, huh? They feature an aggressive rolled thread, have a small shank, (the un-threaded part of the screws length) and are made very hard, through a quick heating process, to keep the drive sockets in the heads from stripping out. Sounds good, but there are some drawbacks that the drywall screw brings to the party that makes it an inappropriate fastener for most cabinetmaking and furniture making applications. The hardness of the drywall screw makes it prone to breaking, just as the head encounters resistance. Believe it or not, what we need is a softer screw. Screws which are made for use in wood, plywood and particle board, undergo additional heat treating known as annealing, which takes a tempered (hardened) screw down a few notches in hardness. This leaves the screw with a little "spring" to it, which allows it to survive the rigors it will encounter in cabinetmaking. As for the aggressive rolled thread and the smaller shank, these are still present on these high-tech "production" screws, such as the Hospa, Zip-R and the Spax screws. What about the higher price of these vs the drywall screw? Think about the last time you had to repair the damage caused by your driver gouging across your panel because the head snapped off. What did you save using the drywall screw?

Processing Orders

A: Minimum orders are a function of the cost of goods. Fees are established to cover operating costs incurred on behalf of our customers.

A: An order that is in our system for an established customer will typically be shipped within 24-48 hours.

A: UPS will carry a maximum of 150 lbs., and a maximum length of 2.5m (8' 2 7/16"). Otherwise, items will be shipped by common carrier.

A: By ordering in standard package quantities you ensure prompt shipment of your order. Some articles can be shipped in quantities other than standard package quantities, however this may delay your order. Contact your customer service representative for more details.

A: As often as we can we put the necessary dimensions and instructions in "The Complete Häfele" (TCH) along with the product description. We also have some of the most requested Instructions de montage available here online at: http://www.hafeleonline.com/ca-fr/support/mounting.html. In some cases we have mounting instructions which may or may not be in the package or online. One item that comes to mind is the common European-style drawer slide. Many years ago, when this was a new item in North America, everyone needed mounting instructions, so they were frequently requested and provided. Now that most shops are familiar with them we don't supply instructions with each slide pair, but have added all of the measurements you will need to install them in the TCH. If after checking the TCH you find that you need further instruction, please feel free to inquire, as we may also have printed instructions available.

A: Your Häfele representative can be one of the best business partners you have. They are available to you via phone, fax and e-mail and are there to help you at every step of the process. We believe that our products aren't really sold until they are giving good service, so if you have any concerns about your order, please let us know and we'll set it straight.

Construction

A: In traditional American style cabinet construction, a face frame is attached to the front of the cabinet for several reasons:

1. To square the carcase (box).
2. To cover the edges of the carcase which may be made of plywood, particleboard or some other lower grade wood.
3. To provide a stronger surface for the mounting of door and drawer hardware.
Frameless cabinet construction takes a few different approach to these same issues, but does so with fewer materials, tools, and man hours.
1. Edges are covered with edging. This could be solid wood or one of the many plastic edgebandings that are in use today.
2. Next, the carcase is held square by the back. Instead of a thin back that is more for looks than anything else, frameless cabinets use 1/4" - 1/2" sheet goods which are firmly attached to the back carcase.
3. Lastly, the hardware designed for doors and drawers really can't be screwed into the edge of the carcase, so the hardware is attached flat on the inside of the cabinet. Using this method, holes known as "System" holes can be utilized to allow any cabinet to be modified at any time by simply removing drawers and adding doors to the system holes, or vice versa.
This method of construction offers so many advantages that we will surely revisit it in the future.

A: 8mm and 10mm holes are used at the joint where the side meets the top and bottom of a carcase. These are referred to as "Construction holes". The 3 and 5mm holes in the 32mm System of cabinet construction are used for adjustable shelves, hinge mounting, drawer slides and more. A few factors will help you determine if 3mm or 5mm will be best for your project. If the system holes will distract from the design elements, use 3mm holes. If strength and adjustability are the key issues, use 5mm holes.

A: Inches are easily converted to millimeters (mm) and millimeters to inches. Just remember that an inch equals 25.4mm. So, if something measures 20 inches, multiply 20 by 25.4 to get 508mm. But why metric anyway? Aren't inches good enough for us? Let's do a little comparison: 12" + 24" +7/8" - 2 3/16" = ? " Now try: 305mm + 610mm + 22mm - 55mm = ?mm Which was easier? To be fair, they don't come out exactly the same. There is a difference of 0.06mm or 0.002". The trick to using metric in the shop is to stop thinking of conversions at all. Buy a metric rule and build your next project with it. Don't even pick up an inch rule, just use the metric rule. It's really easy! Oh yea, to answer the question. Yes, you can use every product we sell if you measure in inches. You may need to buy a few metric drill bits if the hardware requires it, but otherwise feel free to work in inches. (even though it is harder!)

Hinges

A: Lets handle swing first. If the cabinet is in a corner, with its door opening into another cabinet, the swing should prevent the door from slamming into the door next to it. In that case, you'd choose a hinge with a 90-95 deg. swing. The larger the swing angle, the further the door will swing open. Use the charts in section 3 of "The Complete Häfele" catalog to help you decide which swing and style of hinge would be best suited for your project. Style, function and price are all factors in any hinge purchase, so look carefully at all three. If you decide that you want to use concealed hinges, study page 3.5 of "The Complete Häfele" catalog to help you choose the proper mounting plate and to calculate the "Tab" (the distance from the edge of the door to the edge of the 35-40mm hole for the hinge.

A: Our hinges are made to fit several common hole patterns and we will gladly do whatever research that is necessary to help you use our product! Ask your Häfele sales representative to explain our hinge program on their next visit.

A: First, check to make sure you mean 32mm. In all likelihood you are using hinges that were designed for the 32mm system, but the hinge cup is typically 35mm. For 35mm you can use a 1 3/8" Forstner style bit in a pinch, but it will be a little snug. By the way, when you do buy a 35mm bit, make sure you get one that is also the right length. Many of these bits are stubby, for use in special hinge boring machines. If you are using a drill press you will likely want one with a longer shaft. The other option for a small shop is a special 35mm hinge-boring jig that is powered by your hand drill. (See the 2002 Plant Manager catalog, pg. 97) This tool will help you to position your holes precisely, and really shines when you have to bore large doors that would otherwise be tough to manhandle on the drillpress.
(P.S. It turned out that the hinge was 35mm.)

Aluminum Door Frames

A: First off this is a great question! Aluminum is a HOT material today, and you are wise to consider using it in your designs. Aluminum, as most non-ferrous metals, is an easy to machine with woodshop tools, but you will need to invest in a dedicated blade for your saw(s) and may need to build a couple simple jigs.

The blade of choice is Freud LU89M carbide tipped blade. The biggest difference between cutting wood and aluminum (or any non-ferrous metal) is that the chips that are formed during cutting tend to weld themselves to the teeth of the blade, thereby causing a rough cut. This blade addresses this problem with a special gullet design, that prevents this build-up.

In the case of the Quik-Door, you will be cutting an aluminum extrusion, which has a decorative profile on the face, and a slotted or grooved profile on the back. This back profile permits the use of special corner brackets and hinges that require no additional machining (No 35mm holes to drill!) The problem is that neither the front or back is a good, flat reference surface for your saw. In this case, you may need to make a simple support for the material, which will hold the piece at the proper angle, front side up. Many shops, including ours, have found a simple platform, made of plywood, with Masonite supports, mounting with double-stick tape does the job just fine.

As with any machining process involving metal, we highly recommend the use of a liquid lubricant. This lubrication of the blade can be as simple as a squirt of WD-40 or other similar type of lubricant after 4 or 5 cuts. We discourage the use of wax sticks because they do not flush chips away from the teeth interfering with cut quality and the life of the blade.

Architectural Hardware

A: That item is strictly optional. The important things to remember are that adequate wood blocking is necessary and that the wall protection base adds nothing to the strength of the seat. It is strictly meant to protect the wall while the seat is folded down and comes in contact with your finished wall.

Sandpaper/Tools

A: No, you're not missing something, our sandpaper is! (Sorry, I couldn't help it!) Seriously, the purpose of the stearate on any abrasive product is to act as a lubricant, to keep the sanding dust (Swarf, as it's called) moving away from the paper. This helps your paper last longer, and cut more effectively. A few of the problems some folks have had with stearates in the past include colored stearates that transfer color onto the wood, and even oil-based stearates that cause finishing problems you are concerned about. In most cases these problems occurred when someone got a deal on some surplus abrasives that were made for metal or stone grinding, but were either confused as or passed off as woodworking sandpaper. At any rate, all of the sandpaper that we stock that has a undyed stearate oversize. This means it was applied over the abrasives, not under, was designed for use in the woodworking industry, and the stearate is safe for use on items that will be finished with either oil or water based finishes.

A: The Carbo Gold products use light brown Aluminum Oxide (A/O), and are a great all-around the shop paper. The Premier Red products are made of heat-treated Aluminum Oxide (A/O), which holds it's "edge" longer and cuts 30-50% faster than other A/O products. We also now offer a new Premier Red product that's made with Zirconia Alumina (Like those Purple belts you've seen) which really has an extended life. So which do you choose? If you'd rather sand than change paper, go with the Premier Red, otherwise save a few cents and go for the Gold!

A: Häfele offers a complete range of metric drill bits, such as Forstner-style bits, twist bits, brad point bits and even left hand drill bits. Most of our bits are shown in the Häfele Plant Manager catalog, and others are scattered throughout "The Complete Häfele" (TCH) catalog. Here's the bottom line. If you need it to install a Häfele product, we probably have the bit to do it.

Locks

A: Looking at a door from the face that it opens toward, the edge of the door where the hinges are located indicates how the door is "handed". Let's use the front door of your house as an example. Standing inside your house (most residential doors swing into the house) and looking at the door, if your hinges are on the right, your door is "hinged right". It gets a little weird if you think about kitchen cabinets that are mounted with concealed hinges, but it works the same. Standing in your kitchen, a door that has a pull on the left side would be a right hand door. Now, let's add a lock to that same cabinet door. Even though the lock would be installed on the left edge of the door, the lock you would need to order would be a "right" lock, because the door is hinged right. I know it's a bit confusing, but this is the common language used by cabinetmakers and mill workers, (They're the ones who make entrance doors) and it really makes sense once you use it a few times.

Lighting

A: The reasons we require our fixtures be used with our transformers is simply because that is the only way that the lights can be legally used. Our lighting system is just that, a SYSTEM, which was designed, tested and CSA/UL listed for use as a system only. Any combination of other products or installation may cause difficulties with lighting inspectors and does invalidate warranties.

A: Some Halogen and Xenon light fixtures were designed to be installed by a professional electrician only. These systems are classified as Class 1 systems. With Class 1 lighting the installation must pass an inspection to verify that a licensed electrician did the installation and that the installation meets the local code. Our lighting systems were designed and approved for Class 2 use. Class 2 systems can be installed by anyone and use plug type connectors. With Class 2 no hard wiring is required or permitted. Our fixtures can be used in any combination adding up to a maximum of 60 watts per 110-volt (common household current) transformer. The biggest advantage our lighting systems offer is that they can be successfully installed by anyone as long as the instructions are followed. One more important note: As these are low voltage lights designed for use in furniture and cabinetry, all wiring must be kept within the cabinetry, on the top, back or other surface. At no time should the wiring be run through walls such as drywall. That application would require a class 1 system and a licensed electrician.

A: The first thing we need to understand is that the amount of UV-B rays that are emitted from a halogen bulb is slight, however, it is true that they do emit UV-B rays. When Häfele developed its halogen line, this issue was addressed and the system we offer has several advantages over other solutions. First, all of our halogen fixtures are fitted with a special lens, which covers the bulb. This lens filters over 99% of the UV-B rays. One other benefit of the lens is that in the event of a bulb bursting (which can happen if the bulbs were handled with bare hands) the lens will contain the broken glass. Lastly, the lens covers on the Häfele fixtures are a twist-on, twist-off design which will stay firmly in place, unlike others that are push fit and tend to loosen over time due to deterioration caused by exposure to UV rays.

A: Our fixtures are made of plastic, which is an integral part of the construction of each light. With the small size of these fixtures, it was important that many features be built into the design to allow the heat to dissipate. Halogen will cause plastic to turn brown over a period of time, however the Häfele system has solved this problem with the addition of a special finish. White and black fixtures are lacquered. Most companies who provide halogen do not lacquer the covers (where the heat and UV rays are at their greatest) thus the white will turn brown and brittle over time. This is one of the causes of snap-on covers falling off on some fixtures sold elsewhere. Additionally, our Gold and Chrome fixtures are fully electroplated (covered in a thin layer of metal) assuring the long life of the finish. Some companies who electroplate (particularly Asian companies) do a poor job, as the plating will peal off. Häfele fixtures feature high quality electroplating which will not peal off.

A: Let's get the second part of the question out of the way first: No, Halogen and Xenon lights are not fluorescent. They are both incandescent bulbs. (They have a filament) Halogen lamps (bulbs) function according to a cycle in which halogen gas continuously "cleans" heat-vaporized tungsten from the wall of the lamp and redeposits it back on the filament. Because of this cyclical cleaning action, quartz halogen lamps can perform at 97% of their original output at the end of the bulb life, while incandescent bulbs darken by tungsten deposits are reduced to 60% of their original output.

A: Halogen light is very similar to natural sunlight. Halogens color temperature (2900 degrees Kelvin to 3100 degrees Kelvin) makes its color purity at 12volts superior to standard 120-volt household lamps. Said simply, colors are seen as they really are!

A: Mounting instructions are included with each fixture and should be followed carefully. For example, a 10-watt fixture may install and fit differently than a 20-watt fixture of the same style.

A: The fixtures have a lead (wire) that is 300-3000mm long, depending on the fixture, at the end of which is a small plug called an amp plug. The amp plug snaps into, and clips in place in either a mounting block, which is attached to a transformer, or directly into the amp socket in the transformer. That's it!

A: No, the amp pugs are installed at the factory with special tools, which would be required to move the plug. Any excess wire can be simply coiled up and set aside in a inconspicuous place on the top or back of the cabinet. It is not recommended to cut the plug off and wire lights to power sources. Low voltage requires solid connections to prevent "arcing" and with design of amp plugs and pins this prevents this.

A: The Primary cord is the wire that plugs into the 110-volt outlet in the wall. The Secondary cord is the low voltage wire that runs from the transformer to the fixture or mounting block. Some of our transformers plug directly into the wall, with the transformer box hanging on the wall. (823.24.450 TCH pg. 8.57 for example) In this case there is no primary cord.

A: All of our transformers (100%) are tested prior to being boxed at the factory. Our failure rate is fewer than 12 per 10,000 sold.

A: All of our transformers require a minimum of 20-watts. This means that you can't run a single 10-watt fixture with one of our transformers. It's been tried, and what you get is a very low strobe effect. Very annoying, and potentially harmful to the fixture and transformer, so it's not recommend. As for the maximum of 60-watts, this is the maximum set forth in the class 2 requirements, so that's what our transformers were designed to handle. If this maximum is exceeded, the bulbs will burn low and the self-regenerating feature of the bulbs will not work properly causing shorter bulb life and reduced light output. The bottom line is this: If the maximum of 60-watts is exceeded, or if the minimum of 20 watts is not met, the warranty is void and the customer is left out in the cold, so don't let this happen!

A: First, check the plug at the wall outlet. Plug a radio or light into the outlet to check the circuit. If that checks out, the next thing to know is that all of Hafeles transformers feature Electronic Short Circuit Protection. If one of the fixtures develops a short, the transformer will detect this and shut down the entire system. Try unplugging the fixtures from the mounting block, one at a time. This should help you determine the fixture with the short. Upon correction of the problem, the transformer will restart.

A: Häfele transformers feature Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) protection. Only in the case of the transformer being plugged directly into the same circuit as the TV or radio is there even a possibility of any interference from the transformer. If this does happen, it will only be on the low band stations (TV 2, 3 or 88FM etc.). RFI protection is the most advanced in the industry, but there is no way to eliminate the low band bleed-over except to plug the transformer into another circuit. As for humming, the transformer emits no audible noise and has a sound rating of A+.

A: No, Häfele transformers are very energy efficient in that they will turn themselves off when they detect that the lights have been switched off. A lot of transformers on the market continue to operate at 5-10 watts all the time, even when the lights are off. Of course this needlessly burns up power as well as decreases the life of the transformer.

A: Soft start circuitry is a feature of the Häfele transformers which starts the bulbs slowly, extending the life of the bulbs. When the bulb is cold, the sudden jolt of full power to the filament can cause a decrease in bulb life, so even though the delay of the soft start is only a few milliseconds, it's enough to extend the useful life of the bulb. Halogen bulb life is 2000 average, but if the bulb burns out before that we will not replace it. (On the other hand, we also don't charge more if a bulb continues working beyond 2000 hours!) Xenon bulb life on the other hand is on average 10,000 hours.

A: A touch switch allows any piece of metal to become a touch sensitive switch. A knob or a hinge can be wired so that when it is touched, the lights attached to that transformer will be activated. The touch switch 820.99.312 (TCH pg. 8.56) allows up to three transformers to be turned on and adjusted to any of three levels of brightness (25%, 50% and 100%). The transformer 823.24.510 (TCH pg.8.58) comes with a touch switch attached that can handle up to 60 watts and has 5 power settings. Another option is the micro mini switch 823.28.381 (TCH pg. 8.55) that activates the lights whenever the door or drawer that the switch is located behind is opened.

A: Touching the bulbs with your bare fingers may cause premature failure of the bulb. Oils in your skin can cause hot spots on the glass envelope that will result in considerably shortening its life, and may even cause the bulb to burst. Salts in your sweat can also cause problems. This is true of other electronic items such as watch batteries and computer contacts.

Dowels

A: Generally, a dowel should be inserted into the bottom of the hole. Occasionally, a small void may be advantageous to collect excess glue in order to avoid "blowout".

A: On the small end of the scale you have a 5mm X 25mm pin which equates to a 5 to 1 ratio. On the large end of the scale you have a ⅝ X 5" pin which equates to an 8 to 1 ratio.

Generally speaking, the length of a dowel corresponds to a different formula. This is determined by how much dowel can be inserted into the shortest member of the two piece joint. Twice this length is a common rule of thumb for determining dowel length. As an example, if your shortest member is 1" thick and you know your safest drilling depth is ¾" then a 1½" dowel should be used. A 1½ length equates to two times the ¾" thickness.

A similar procedure can be used to determine a proper diameter for the dowel. Generally, there should be no space smaller than half the diameter of the dowel between any edge of the dowel and the outer edge of a panel. For example, if the side panel is 1" thick then you want to use a ½" dowel to adhere to this rule since that leaves ¼" on each side of the dowel.

Please keep in mind that these are general rules of thumb and that specific applications needto be addressed on an individual basis.

A: Dowels are loose for one of two reasons. Either the dowel is too small of the hole is too big. An 8mm bit does not guarantee an 8mm hole. Does the bit turn true? Has it been sharpened? Are your spindles out of tolerance? Are your dowel diameters too small? Additionally, an 8mm bit drilled into particle board; MDF, plywood and solid wood will give you 4 different sizes of finished holes. Some will be bigger and some smaller.

A: A proper diameter dowel, in a proper diameter hole, applied by an automatic machine will produce a stronger joint with a pre-glued dowel than with conventional glue. This occurs because glue applied by an automatic machine does not coat the entire circumference of the hole, as water will.

Anytime an improper fit occurs because of the dowel or the bore, conventional glue will produce a stronger joint. The primary reason is because a pre-glued dowel will not fill any voids.

A: Pre-glued dowels and water can damage panels if they are not used properly. Generally, the problem does not manifest itself in solid wood. You are more likely to see it in plywood panels. If the depth of the hole and the length of the dowel are proper, then there is no void left to trap water. If the holes are drilled deeper than necessary, then a place is provided to trap water. This water may then bleed through to the surface. To prevent this possible occurrence only two things are necessary: proper hole depth and proper dowel length. If used properly you will not experience any discoloration problems.

A: Generally, 10-20 psi is all that is needed for water to activate pre-glued dowels. If you have been using glue previously you may need to decrease the time that the glue valve is open to get a small enough amount of water. A good rule of thumb with glue is the higher the pressure the better. Higher pressures will help the glue nozzles clean themselves. When they are kept clean they will perform much better. This is one exception to this rule: if you can't get a small enough amount of glue at a higher pressure you may have to turn down the pressure to avoid getting too much glue.